Envying ladies who lunch

After an early start with breakfast meetings, and then posting the consequences, I managed to escape to lunch with a friend from Australia, her husband and another Australian. Went to Restaurant Les Ombres on the roof of the new Musée du quai Branly. It's distinguished not only by the view of its next door neighbour, the Eiffel Tower, but by an excellent chef. I had la carte, which today consisted of:

• Salade de mâche en écrin de noix de Saint-Jacques, vinaigrette tiède à l’huile de noisette
• Moules de Bouchot aux chorizo et parmesan, avec grosses frites confites à la graisse d’oie, and
• De Paris à Brest en pâte à choux, crème pralinée à l’ancienne

All accompanied by a lovely Givrey Champs Lalot Vieilles Vignes. I don't know what vegetables were in that salad. Mâche certainly, but also some sort of very crisp round stalk, cut about the size of baby peas. The scallops were raw, and very thinly sliced. The hazelnut oil and the odd toasted nut pulled it all together beautifully.

A couple of hours of good conversation and good food left me motivated to try to walk off some of the calories, and the left bank is a good place to do that, even if it's cold outside. The reports of 30 cm of snow and cold back home takes the edge off even that.

Chaumette

A list of favourite restaurants in Paris I got from a friend came with the notation that Chaumette is the author's family's favourite Paris Bistro, despite its not having a history with Hemmigway. I can see the point. It's a young crew, and chef Tanguy le Gall does an excellent job on classic bistro fare. Near the ever-expanding Radio France HQ, it has only about 30 seats, but a good menu, and the food is well cooked and well presented. One quirky feature is "pommes de mer": little ratté potatoes roasted with a sprinkling of coarse sea salt crystals. A little out of the way but well worth the walk from nearest metro stop. (Wierdly, YouTube has a video of Chaumette, credited to Philippe Noiret.)
Chaumette (16e arrondissement) 7 rue Gros, tel 01 42 88 29 27

Les Cocottes

Taking advantage of a cold, snowy-sleety night in Paris, I was successful in getting a seat at Les Cocottes de Christian Constant. There has to be some advantage to being Canadian, and braving the cold and snow to get a seat in a crowded restaurant seems to be one of them. It's a long, narrow room with a limited menu. Most of the dishes are prepared en cocotte – in small cast-iron lidded pots. Obviously not the excellent roquette salad with a poached egg and lardons coated in something like reduced balsamic vinegar. But the main of a crusty cabillaud sitting atop a bed of well roasted potatoes and carrots in jus de viande acidulée. The special of the day was rabbit in a rosemary broth. I also saw a wonderful looking roast chicken haunch on a bed of risotto. Scallops were served with endive in a bubbling mass of butter foam. As one review said: you can eat healthily here, or not. Take your pick. Well worth the effort of getting there.
133 rue St-Dominique (7th Arr) +33-1-45-50-10-31

Always befriend the bartender

A tip for the lonely traveller ;-)

Having failed for the second night to get even bar seating at the Swinging Door, I wandered further down the waterfront in SF, past La Mar, to the Waterfront Restaurant. I'd noticed it during the day's long walk. They have a lovely simple menu: several kinds of fish, grilled or roasted, with 4 kinds of sauce. Extras are extra. I started with a heritage beet salad, on a bed of arugala and frisée, then went for the Ahi Tuna, grilled, with grilled asperagus on the side. It was perfectly cooked, and the lime-cilatro mayo was a nice counterpoint. Being Sunday, I started with a martini made with a local SF gin called 209. Worth the premium price. As a wine I had a brilliant Sangiovese from Pietra Santa Winery in the heretofore unheard of Cienega Valley. It was full bodied, with a nose filled with black fruits and spice. Wish we could get those in Canada.

Oh, and the bartender... he was generous enough to top up the glass of Sangiovese and, apparently looking for conversation, offered a few complementary glasses of a Frog's Leap sauvignon blanc just to clear the bottle. As he said: "All good."

San Francisco find

A happy discovery in San Francisco: La Mar Cebicheria Peruiana. I had been trying to go to the Slanted Door for new wave Vietnamese, but it was lined out the door even though past 9 when I got there. No loss: La Mar had wonderful fresh fish, clean flavours and nice spicy aji amarillo peppers. I had half orders of a couple of kinds of cebiche (criollo and nikei) and a causa limena (crab, potatoes, aji amarillo, quail egg, and lime -- see pic.) sitting at the bar. Excellent food, and though the service was quite slow, the room is lively, and the cooks behind the bar friendly (willing to put up with painfully unpracticed Spanish) and actually from Peru!

Kickstarting the Montreal economy

Spent the weekend in Montreal with friends from Singapore, Mexico and Washington helping to keep the local economy healthy in these tough times. The restaurant industry in particular benefited. The outstanding place was Laloux. The meal there was great! For openers there was albacore tuna just seared, zucchini and cress salad, with a spicy lemon purée. A couple of mains were outstanding: arctic char, du Puy lentils, caramelized salsify, crispy lardoons for one, and seared scallops from Côte-Nord, white beet, black trumpet mushrooms, chiogga beet salad with lemon confit. Lots of words, but wonderful. Dessert, which I usually don't bother with, was just too tempting. Ever heard of anything like a ''Candy Cap'' mushroom panna cotta, ''Paula Red'' apple sorbet, topped with pecans and rosemary? Completely amazing. And for wine, a lovely 2004 Marsannay, Les Champs Salomon, Domaine Bart.

Also good, though not quite the same standard was Leméac, on the Plateau. I had some lovely

grilled calamari and zucchini, lemon and balsamic vinaigrette to start, and a main of roasted black cod with fennel and potato purée. Others had the salmon tartare and duck confit, and thought they were pretty good.

Finally we managed to fit in a visit to l'Express for lunch. Don't try to resist the duck confit en salade, but the house made ravioli are pretty good too!

The Cheese-off

I got a challenge: present enough cheese to show off the current Quebec cheese revolution to 36 people and have them face the competition from best of artisanal Wisconsin. What to do? A visit to the local cheese monger produced the following:

• Riopelle de l'Îsle
  
• Peau Rouge
• Magie de Madawaska
• Le Sieur de Duplessis
• Le Ciel de Charlevoix (a blue)
• Le Cendré
• La Sauvagine

A bunch of brilliant, mostly raw milk cheeses, perhaps a little heavy on the Tomme style (which was fine with me). See descriptions on this site.

And the result? I'd recommend all of the above -- the winner among the fans of the more odorous, softer, Euro-style entries above was hands down La Sauvagine. But surprise! While some people liked the more European style Quebec cheeses, some preferred the harder, largely saltier Wisconsin entries. Go figure. You don't lose much trying 8 or 16 excellent cheeses.