skip to main |
skip to sidebar
I ran across this gem on the way to something else recently. It says a lot about the current state of politics, I think:
"I never meant to say that the Conservatives are generally stupid people. I meant to say that stupid people are generally Conservative. I believe that is so obviously and universally admitted a principle that I hardly think any gentleman will deny it."
-- John Stuart Mill, "Letter to the Conservative MP, Sir John Pakington" (March 1866)
LE POÊT LAVALLes HospitaliersLe Poêt Laval 2616004 75 46 22 32If you are staying in la Drôme (and there are lots of wonderful places to rent by the week), this is a little self-indulgence. This is classic French well done. We had a filet d’omble with a wonderful “crumble de citron et crème d’ail doux” and a filet de lotte with bouillon des crustaces as part of a brilliant prix fixe. Go for lunch: it’s the same menu but less busy. The hotel itself is a delight, if you’re looking for a place in le Poêt Laval…GRIGNANRestaurant "Le Clair De La Plume"+33 (0)4 75 91 81 30http://www.clairplume.com/This is a charming tea-room with a good lunch in a tree-shaded outdoor courtyard and part of what looked like a perfectly charming little hotel in Grignan. This is a most pleasant place to stop while waiting for the château to open after the mandatory 3-hour lunch break (a curse to late risers). The château, to and from which Mme. de Sévigné wrote to her daughter in the famous 17th century collection of her letters, is worth the visit. There is also a nice gallery of prints and antique books called Dit Elle in the town, as well as a museum of typography!
DIEULEFIT
ART-HOME @ Restaurant
51, rue du Bourg 26220
+33 04 75 46 86 16
art-home@live.fr
A quirky little spot with a nice terrace on the main street of Dieulefit. Reservations advised, especially if you are planning to go on market day. The young staff are producing lovely food, focusing on regional but sometimes with an Asian flare. Fresh fish are good, as were the sampler plates the day we visited. There are a few tables on the street but these may be a challenge, depending on the quality of the street musicians.
Sadly, I couldn’t find a source of a really brilliant Provençal soupe de poisson, so no recommendations there. But we did find one gem…11e Art Restaurant11, rue Meyerbeer 060004 93 87 57 15A small trendy restaurant with big ambition and a chef up to the challenge. The food is a little inclined to the molecular, but still focuses on quality ingredients well prepared. Lots of interesting textures and flavours. Some surprising and delightful things appeared – avocado ice cream, for example, in a trio of avocado appetizers. Even when pressed, the wait staff decline to reveal secrets. Despite being a little out of the way this is worth the visit.
Marseille surpassed all expectations – a fascinating town, improving rapidly, and with fabulous food. A few highlights…
Une Table au Sud
2, Quai du port 13002
04 91 90 63 53
www.unetableausud.com
Starting with the most expensive: a Michelin 1-star. Beautiful setting on second floor with excellent view of the sun setting over the harbour. The food was good, but the service lagged its quality – timid 16-year-olds are not a good choice for the role. The wine steward knew her stuff, and could answer questions reasonably. We went for the prix fixe with wine, which was interesting, but the food did not highlight the quality of its ingredients, opting instead for visual or textural effect. Not my style: I don’t think I should be saying “that was wonderful, I wonder what it was.”
Les Arcenaulx
25, Cours d’Estienne d’Orves 13001
04 91 59 80 30
This is a lovely place on a large pedestrian court in old Marseille. Incorporating a bookstore, antiquarian bookstore and dining accessories store (napkins, rings, etc.) it is worth the visit just to see the premises, but you should definitely include a meal. They have a charming dining room and a good sized terrace (watch the evening Mistral and pedestrian traffic on the Place). Food was superbly cooked, the service first rate and friendly. Really good.
Le jardin d’á coté
Place Julien
Place Julien is worth exploring, as is the surrounding area full of small shops, emerging artists, designers (check out Madame Zaza de Marseille), and locals playing hacky sack or ghetto blasters. We stopped for lunch at this small restaurant on the square, taking advantage of its shady terrace. I ordered le plat marseillais – a selection of 6 or 8 local specialties – and couldn’t have been happier. If you’re in the neighbourhood around noon, I’d recommend it.
Millésimes 6213/15, place de Catalogne 7501401 43 35 34 35www.millesimes62.comThis place is a little out of the way unless you are staying near Montparnasse Station, but it’s very good. The atmosphere is pleasant, and service is good. In late June, the food was seasonal and fresh. Excellent fish.Vin & Marée276, Boulevard Voltaire 7501101 46 47 91 39www.vin-et-maree.comSpecializes in seafood, and it is fresh. Not to mention limited – on a Sunday evening they were out of quite a few things, but what arrived at table was well prepared. Décor and accompaniments were a bit stodgy, but overall reasonable value for money.Bistro de Breteuil3, place de Breteuil 7500701 45 67 07 27www.bistrocie.frIn the mood for a classic neighbourhood bistro, this is a good choice. Evening prix fixe includes a very respectable choice of wines. Full in evenings, best to reserve.Le Dôme du Marais53 bis, rue des Francs Bourgeois 7500401 42 75 54 17Listed in Time Out Paris, this place is a treat. Under a beautiful glass dome with wonderful paneled walls, the ambience is fine. The food matches. Though we managed to get a badly placed table without reservation, I’d recommend booking ahead. The food and overall experience top its more famous namesake, at least in my books.Café des Musées49, rue de Turenne 7500301 42 72 96 17Another neighbourhood bistro: small, plain, open kitchen, great food. A good selection of house wines from a series of DOCs in the Rhône I wasn’t familiar with.40469, rue des Gravilliers 7500301 42 74 57 81Again from Time Out Paris, a Moroccan restaurant worth the visit if you’re tired of French cooking. The food seemed fairly authentic to me based on a week in Marrakech, reasonably priced, and good. You sit at long tables family style, and I noticed we were placed at la table des anglaise, despite our refusal to speak anything but French. Must have been the checked shirt…
Posts
