Marseille surpassed all expectations – a fascinating town, improving rapidly, and with fabulous food. A few highlights…
Une Table au Sud
2, Quai du port 13002
04 91 90 63 53
www.unetableausud.com
Starting with the most expensive: a Michelin 1-star. Beautiful setting on second floor with excellent view of the sun setting over the harbour. The food was good, but the service lagged its quality – timid 16-year-olds are not a good choice for the role. The wine steward knew her stuff, and could answer questions reasonably. We went for the prix fixe with wine, which was interesting, but the food did not highlight the quality of its ingredients, opting instead for visual or textural effect. Not my style: I don’t think I should be saying “that was wonderful, I wonder what it was.”
Les Arcenaulx
25, Cours d’Estienne d’Orves 13001
04 91 59 80 30
This is a lovely place on a large pedestrian court in old Marseille. Incorporating a bookstore, antiquarian bookstore and dining accessories store (napkins, rings, etc.) it is worth the visit just to see the premises, but you should definitely include a meal. They have a charming dining room and a good sized terrace (watch the evening Mistral and pedestrian traffic on the Place). Food was superbly cooked, the service first rate and friendly. Really good.
Le jardin d’á coté
Place Julien
Place Julien is worth exploring, as is the surrounding area full of small shops, emerging artists, designers (check out Madame Zaza de Marseille), and locals playing hacky sack or ghetto blasters. We stopped for lunch at this small restaurant on the square, taking advantage of its shady terrace. I ordered le plat marseillais – a selection of 6 or 8 local specialties – and couldn’t have been happier. If you’re in the neighbourhood around noon, I’d recommend it.
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